chef recipe





Japanese-Style Blancmange

Two kinds of blancmange (a regular white one, and a Japanese-style one flavored with powdered green tea)



Japanese-Style Blancmange



Akihiro Tamego Akihiro Tamego


Ingredients

Serves 8

250cc water
2g agar-agar
70g sugar
Arrowroot starch and water mixture
(20g arrowroot starch + 30g water)
100cc milk
50cc heavy cream
Green tea
(3g powdered green tea + 2 tablespoons tepid water)



Directions

  1. Combine the water and well-steeped agar-agar in a microwave-safe bowl, cover with plastic wrap and heat in a microwave oven at 500W for 10 minutes to dissolve the agar-agar.

  2. Strain the mixture into another bowl. While it is still hot, stir in the arrowroot and water mixture using a whisk. Add the sugar and mix well.

  3. Reheat in a microwave oven at 500W for approx. 2 minutes to boil the mixture again. After the mixture turns clear, remove from the microwave oven.

  4. Combine the milk and heavy cream, and add the green tea as you strain it. Gradually stir the green tea mixture into 3. using a whisk.
    (To make regular white blancmange, add 2 tablespoons of brandy, instead of the green tea.)

  5. Pour in cups and chill until set.


Tips:

  • To dissolve agar-agar by boiling in a pan, plenty of water is usually added and boiled down. This is because the lower the consistency of the agar-agar, the easier it is dissolved. (If the consistency is 2% or more, it is hard to dissolve.)
    First, enough water is added to make the consistency around 1%, and boil down to make thick liquefied agar-agar. When you try to boil it down in a microwave oven, steam raises the humidity inside and prevents evaporation.
    Also, the saturated steam condenses into waterdrops that stick to the inside walls of the microwave oven and absorb microwaves.
    So, this is not a good way. For this recipe, I tried to dissolve approx. 1% agar-agar in water, covered with plastic wrap to eliminate the possibility of evaporation. Then, I added some arrowroot starch to make up for the solidifying power, and found that it set the total 400cc of liquid (water, milk and heavy cream) just right. Moreover, it got a uniquely soft texture, compared to the somewhat stiff texture you get when only agar-agar is used.
    Also, it did not melt at room temperature, unlike gelatin. I saved it for three days, but deterioration in the texture, due to the aging starch, was hardly noticed. This is a unique harmony between starch, which sets in heat, and agar-agar, which sets when chilled.



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